Motion is very smooth. stronger, but would give me a coarser focus action because of their Orion Dynamo Mini for powering a Nexstar 6SE? To test the concept I used a short piece of two inch PVC for the draw tube. I've been using the above pair Fairly easy to build and could be adapted to suit any SCT focuser. I had designed the tube box so that there would be an extra inch around the tube. I have seen some VERY impressive photos similar to those, taken with Nikon D700 and D300 cameras, with the proper filters- and mounts- on a quality scope. I decided to use baltic birch because it is recommended by Kriege and Berry as well as many online sources. To view, go here: http://emediadesigns.com/focuser/ on Step 1, interesting build, its just like my old Odyssey brand scope from the mid 1990's. The cell from Anttler's, for which I had received a refund, had arrived. I will post the pic of final focuser once ready. My homemade motorized telescope focuser for Celestron C8. Telescope Magazine. Carve out a hole on the top part of the sonotube first. To get this arc, I actually moved the radius of the jig in by 1/8 inch. The pivot bolt consists of a 1 1/8 inch brass spacer with an 11/16 inch outer diameter, a 3/8 inch bolt 2 inches long, a stop nut, and two large washers. Move the jigs until you can comfortably place a variety of eyepieces in the focuser and get a sharp image, then carefully measure the separation distances. Here we see the following components installed: Notice we are NOT populating the parts of the board intended for Wifi or BLED. in the tube so they'll hit the knitting needle before your drawtube runs It is not very powerful, it will not supply enough torque if you put any load on it or have a heavy optical train (like I do) and the focuser has to "pull" it upward when the telescope is vertical. together tech enthusiasts, crafters, educators across the globe. I have built a homemade electric focuser for my Celestron 8SE using a radio control hobby servo and some spare parts. I didn't receive any confirmation email after a few days, so I tried to send them an email. If you're not using heavy eyepieces, you probably don't need I had chosen a boxy, rigid design for the binocular scope, so #2 knitting needle would be just about right. In order to check your measurements, you can construct jigs for your mirror cell and secondary cage, positioning them on a straight, adjustable track such as 2 planks of wood. Parts List (the full story of acquiring the parts), The primary, secondary, spider and secondary holderDiscovery Optics. Then it was time to stain and finish. After the second call, I received a response that it would be ready at the end of the following week. Find a special something for the makers in your life. As I set of the scope, several club members came over to check things out and it was nice to hear the positive comments on the appearance of the scope. . initiatives for the next generation of makers. This NEMA-17 direct drive stepper motor is available from Adafruit and many other sellers. like, you can have as much focuser travel as you want no matter how In amateur astrophotography, we run our telescopes overnight. Unbelievable! Sew the seam, and sew an elastic cord into the top to secure it to the secondary cage. I did not own all of the tools that I needed for this project, particularly a table saw and router, so I did a lot of work while visiting my Dad. I had considered a Moonlite or Featherlite focuser, but I knew from my experience with my 6 inch scope that I wanted a 2 speed focuser, and the price tag of their 2 speed focusers scared me away. Ask Question Step 5: Stepper Motor Choice #2 - NEMA-17 Geared Stepper Motor If your optical train is heavy and the focuser has to bear it (see above) then this motor may be a better choice. on Step 5, After much debit and doubt i have taken the photos down cause i cannot be 100% sure that they were taking from my scope as i was not there to verify them and i do not want my contest entry to be based on photos and not the build process. Did you make this project? As I continued to read, however, I was struck by the many complications of the design and, frankly, how many ways I could screw it up. Also no obvious diffraction spikes in the m31 photo. It was important that the two circles be identical because the edges had to match perfectly when glued together and the two side bearings had to be identical in order for the altitude motion to work well. forward and back along with the drawtube when you focus, and you'll get It turned out that they had an incorrect zip code and the package was still waiting to be sent. Finally, I attached Keepers to the sides of the rocker at the bottom of the arcs using screws and glue. Edited by sunrag, 28 May 2020 - 10:44 PM. As the telescope tilts toward the horizon, the mirror must be supported on its edge. The Focuser and other items: (Scope Stuff). The Crayford focuser is a simplified focusing mechanism for amateur astronomical telescopes. SDO/HMI Continuum Image on 2023.03.04 at 1259 UT, Remote computer working with no extra networking. The blue pieces of the rocker box and ground board are arranged as in the diagrams in (figure 2). This is the upper tube that contains the flat secondary mirror, Telrad finder, and focuser. This book describes in great detail the steps to build a large aperture truss tube dob, focusing on scopes with a 12.5 to 40 inch mirror. This is not recommended for shared computers. I had some carboy caps that make good knobs. I told them to take their time and get it right. } catch(err) {}, SH-232 Sharpless sh-232, sh-231, sh-233, sh-235, NGC2174 Monkey Head Nebula, Sharpless 252, Sh2-252, HDW3 Hartl-Dengel-Weinberger 3 PN G149.4-09.2, SH-198 Sharpless 198, Soul Nebula, IC1848, NGC281 IC11, Sharpless Sh2-184, Pacman Nebula, SH2-173 SH2-173 Phantom of the Opera LBN 593, SH2-168 Sharpless HII regions. I wanted the long focal length for good contrast. After looking at many focuser options with a big range of prices, I decided to order a GSO 2 speed Crayford focuser from ScopeStuff. You reach a point where the picture doesn't seem to change much, so you never know where the very sweetest spot in the focus is. This means I can use FocusMax to do the focusing. Once I decided to build a scope myself I had to decide on the aperture of the scope. I marked the spot and moved things back inside to install the mirror. the interior diameter is just a nudge over 2". Whether you need a basic rack-and-pinion telescope focuser for your homemade telescope project or a premium Crayford-type model with dual-speed focusing as a performance upgrade, you have come to the right place. I hate focusing. I used my router to "mill" a flat area for better contact with the focus adjustment rod. This extra space would allow the tube to be repositioned within the tube box to rotate the eyepiece or balance the tube. I call shenanigans on every picture in this post except for the the moon. I suppose that one could complete this project without these two tools, but it would be difficult to cut the pieces accurately enough for a good fit. There are sub-folders for the different versions. Another thing, the resolution on the Dumbell nebula seems a bit too high for that telescope. I had installed the mirror about an inch too far away from the focuser. Feel free to take on that part if you like, but you're on your own :-). Two of the holes for the bolts were blocked by knobs. Download and check them out, I just grabbed the first one and printed it. installations. From everything I had read, I expected that getting a sonotube would be as easy as running to any hardware store and picking it up. A Pocket Sundial From a Broken Pocket Watch! the tube is cardboard as well, you can also get a quality mirror at telescope.com for much cheaper. Headers for the LEDs, buzzer (2-pin) and temperature probe (3-pin). I also wanted to strengthen and protect the cardboard tube. Well, it sort of looks like a focuser.. See pictures below. And bolt to scope We all know the problems with focusing. Make sure the shroud can slip on and off of the assembled scope, and that it stretches along the circumference (not lengthwise). But -- you have to be careful that the mechanism is true and the motor does not have a load on it at any time, otherwise it will 'stall' and stop moving. This resulted in a gear that wasn't true and "wobbled" a bit. Drill the holes for the knitting In addition, we use third-party cookies to help us analyze and understand usage. occurred to me that a square turned 45 degrees would give me two flat The arc at the top of the sides needed to have a radius 1/8 inch larger than that of the side bearings to account for the thickness of the teflon pads that would fit between. Perfect for visual observations with very heavy mirrors. Cost is $25 - $30, and you will have 5 PCBs in about a week. As I read the book I decided that I should build a 12.5 inch truss tube scope. The specific hardware used for this is described on the Building page. crafts, science & engineering, design, and technology. I am a retired USAF electronics engineer, and might even do much of the construction of the base with welded structural tubing, as, I do have a complete metal working shop besides my wood shop, here. It stalled when tension on the belt increased. In my build, the minimum eyepiece-to-secondary mirror distance (13) plus the primary-to-secondary mirror distance (57) equals the focal length of 71, which is roughly 4.5 times the width of the 16 mirror. focusers for that project. It took yet another call a week later for the items to actually be mailed. Likewise, the side bearings are made of two identical semicircles of 5/8 inch plywood glued together, creating side bearings that are 1 inches thick. One of the companies I had considered as a supplier for the primary mirror was Anttler's Optical. The cutting diagram in (figure 1) shows how I cut the required pieces from two 60 X 60 pieces of Baltic Birch plywood, one inch thick, and one 5/8. After the glue dried but before the clamps were removed, I added corner braces to all four corners of the tube using glue and brads to hold them in place. Please feel free to email me at the address on the right. But let me see what items I can arrange to make a helical. Picture of DS-4. After researching several possible sources for a primary mirror, I decided to order an f/5 12.5 inch mirror from Discovery Optics. large in diameter (1.6") so that adds to the fine-ness of the focus case you need more focuser travel than you thought. If you go to buy all of the components for this project from dealers, you will see that you mostly have to buy at least 5 parts, sometimes bags of 50 parts! Once Id built a CNC router, I embarked on my third telescope, featuring a 16 primary mirror with aluminum trusses, wide vertical bearing arcs, a steel front-adjustable mirror cell, and a rotating base. A few months later I ordered some other things from Scopestuff, including strips of Ebony Star laminate for the side bearings, a ring of Ebony Star for the rocker bottom, a strip of teflon to cut pieces for the ground board and side bearings, and a new base for my Telrad finder. The little app is simple and works great. So, am curious to see what others have designed and built and proud to show off here on the homage to Crayford thread. Link to the motor speed controller kit:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5225(a 5K external potentiometer will be required): http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RP3508The drive motor:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=YG2734The gears:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=YG2736The motor forward/reverse switch:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ST0506The push button:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SP0711 This can be shimmed out with paper wrapped around the The day I received the refund, I ordered a mirror cell from University Optics. the drive shaft close against the drawtube. It turns out the the extra 1/16 allowed far too much side to side movement between the rocker and ground board. I drilled the holes in the center of the ground board and rocker bottom using a 9/16 bit, thinking that I needed the extra 1/16 so that the spacer could move. The shroud made from two 22 inch tall containers came out short, so I had to add an eleven inch strip of nylon. If you mess up, you can turn the hole into a slot, but avoid If you found some good surplus lenses, you will have made a stunningly good objective for your scope. On the cutting diagram, you can see that the side bearings were cut 26 inches long. Slide the eyepiece into the focuser and try it out. (The 8 inches from the center of the secondary to the field stop in the focuser is the same 8 inches from the center of the focuser to the top of the tube.) microcontrollers including Arduino and Raspberry Pi, Drones and 3D Printing, and more. I could not find a spacer to fit my 9/16 hole, so I bought the 11/16 spacer (1 1/8 long because that's what the store had) and a bit of the same size. work really well, for a fraction of the cost of a commercial Crayford Not sure if it is available in the USA. 11 years ago I marked the expected position of the secondary by measuring 61 inches down from the end of the tube. New Creation Tamil 6.96K subscribers Welcome to New Creation Tamil Our Channel include of Guiding Videos: 1.DIY Projects 2.Awesome Ideas 3.Tips You are inter with New Creation Tamil you can enjoy. Robert is a super guy and more than willing to help those who choose to follow in his footsteps. Since my focuser shaft is 6mm, I ordered the coupler shown here in the 6mm to 8mm version from Amazon. How to build a 12.5 inch closed tube Dobsonian telescope. I had the thought that as long as I was going to build it I should build it as big as I could afford. on Introduction. All that remained was to design and print a bracket, and buy the needed parts. adapter set screws to slide into. My concern turned to alarm when my wife told me that Discovery had charged the balance due on all items to my account a few weeks earlier. A neet site: http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/CAMERAS.HTM Cool instructable, Dude!
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